Care guide · Freshwater shrimp

Eastern grass shrimp

Palaemon paludosus

Photo: Enziarro / Joseph Stansbury Rosin via Wikimedia Commons; public domain. Photo: Enziarro / Joseph Stansbury Rosin · Source · Public domain (author dedication)Resized by the existing image pipeline only; source image itself has prior author-declared crop, sharpening and level adjustments.

The eastern grass shrimp (Palaemon paludosus) is a translucent freshwater shrimp native to the eastern United States. Older literature and aquarium labels often use Palaemonetes paludosus; taxonomic databases treat that as a synonym of the accepted name Palaemon paludosus. The trade name “ghost shrimp” is less precise and is applied to several shrimp species, so it should not be treated as a reliable identification. This guide separates species evidence from general shrimp-keeping advice and leaves a numerical aquarium minimum and narrow water targets unstated where reliable species-specific support is lacking.

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At a glance

Temperature: 20–28 °C
pH: 7.0–8.0
Diet: Omnivore
Adult size: Up to 5 cm
Temperament: Predator, May compete for food

About this species

Palaemon paludosus (Gibbes, 1850) belongs to the family Palaemonidae and is also called eastern or riverine grass shrimp. Its scientific combination changed when the genus Palaemonetes was placed within Palaemon. ITIS lists names including Palaemonetes paludosus, Hippolyte paludosa and Palaemonetes exilipes as synonyms. “Glass shrimp” and “ghost shrimp” are broad trade names also used for other translucent shrimp, so a shop label alone does not establish the species. The body is see-through, but appearance can vary with age, surroundings and gut contents.

Natural habitat

The species is native to the eastern and southeastern United States. Species accounts and field studies record it in lowland streams, marshes, lakes and other slow-moving or still freshwater habitats. Shrimp are often found among dense submerged vegetation, grasses and fine cover, where they can forage and shelter from larger predators. They also occur in brackish conditions; that does not make them marine animals or a reason to add aquarium salt. Published field temperature tolerance is broad, but a wild tolerance range is not an aquarium setting recommendation.

Aquarium and layout

Provide dense plants, moss, roots and other secure cover. This gives shrimp places to forage, hide while moulting and shelter young. A mature aquarium also supplies biofilm and natural food particles. We found no sufficiently supported species-specific minimum volume, so this guide does not invent a litre figure. Match the aquarium footprint to the number of adult shrimp, usable bottom and swimming space, and tankmates. Use a sponge filter or a fine pre-filter over the intake so juveniles are not drawn in. Cover openings and avoid abrupt changes during water replacement.

Water conditions

Two specialist aquarium profiles give 20–28 °C. For pH, this guide uses the conservative overlap of 7.0–8.0: Fin & Stem gives 7.0–8.0 and FishForever 6.5–8.0. These are practical husbandry ranges from aquarium sources, not experimentally established physiological limits. Broad USGS field observations are not an aquarium setting. Keep a mature, stable aquarium, with ammonia and nitrite undetectable, and avoid rapid changes. No species-specific GH or KH target is confirmed here; do not add salt, buffers or minerals without measurements and a clear need.

Behaviour and group size

Eastern grass shrimp forage among plants and over surfaces, and species accounts describe them as omnivorous and mainly nocturnal feeders. Their natural diet is not algae alone: small aquatic animals, plant material and detritus are also eaten. At up to about 5 cm, a shrimp may take small prey. This does not mean it is automatically safe with fish eggs, tiny fry or very small invertebrates. No controlled compatibility trial was found for every aquarium pairing. Assess adult size, hunting behaviour, shelter and food competition; matching water values alone is not enough. Avoid animals that actively hunt the shrimp or pull at its limbs.

Feeding

In the wild, P. paludosus eats diatoms, green algae, detritus, plant material and small aquatic insects. Offer a varied omnivorous diet in the aquarium while leaving biofilm and natural forage available. Give small portions of sinking or finely divided food that the shrimp can reach, and remove leftovers before they degrade water quality. Do not feed so heavily that natural growth disappears or the aquarium becomes polluted. A general care source lists ordinary shrimp foods and algae wafers for freshwater shrimp, but no exact product in our catalogue has been individually checked for ingredients and use with this species. No commercial product is therefore linked.

Breeding

Reproduction is sexual. The female carries eggs beneath the abdomen; species accounts report broods of a few dozen eggs, with numbers varying between individuals and conditions. One species profile gives an incubation of about 12–14 days at 26–28 °C, not a guaranteed duration in every aquarium. Larvae pass through several developmental stages. A study of salinity found hatching and metamorphosis possible at low salinity, while post-metamorphosis survival was low and highest in its trials at 5–10 ppt. Other species accounts describe this as a freshwater shrimp. Breeding should not be summarized as “always needs brackish water” or “always succeeds in freshwater”; results depend on the stock and conditions, so keep provenance and outcomes.

Keeping with fish

No exact fish pairing in the central database has enough direct evidence to recommend as a confirmed match. General freshwater-shrimp guidance sometimes lists small, calm fish as possible tankmates, but a shrimp reaching about 5 cm and its larvae remain vulnerable to many fish. A larger shrimp may also eat small eggs or newly hatched animals. Assess each fish’s adult size, mouth, hunting behaviour, swimming level and available cover; overlapping water values alone are insufficient. A fish-free species tank is the safer choice when breeding is a priority. Do not identify or select the shrimp only by the generic “ghost shrimp” label.

Keeping with other invertebrates

No specific pairing with another invertebrate has been confirmed as a tested species relationship. Aqueon’s general shrimp guidance says dwarf shrimp from different genera can be kept together, but that does not prove every pairing with the larger Palaemon is safe. Eastern grass shrimp are omnivorous and may take very young, soft-shelled or newly moulted animals as food; tankmates may also compete for biofilm and feed. Combine them only when adult size, diet, behaviour and water needs all fit, and provide dense cover. Keep colonies separately when maintaining a pure breeding line matters. We therefore do not mark particular shrimp or snails as “suitable” without more direct evidence.

Exoskeleton, shell and minerals

Like other crustaceans, this shrimp moults as it grows. A clear shed exoskeleton is normal and does not need to be removed; the shrimp may recover minerals from it. The new shell is soft for a short period, making cover especially useful. Prevent water-change shocks and protect filter intakes. The reviewed sources do not establish an exact species-specific GH or calcium target, so do not raise hardness by guesswork. If moults repeatedly fail, first check stable water quality, diet, possible copper exposure and measured hardness; one failed moult alone is not a diagnosis.

Possible problems

Main risks include misidentification under the generic “ghost shrimp” label, predation, filter intake of juveniles, excess food decay and sudden changes in water quality. Some translucent feeder shrimp are different species with different life cycles. Ask for the scientific name and source when buying. For problems, first check temperature stability, ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, chlorine and possible copper from medication or fertiliser. Provide cover and prevent fish from persistently chasing the shrimp. Remove dead animals and uneaten food promptly. Do not medicate based only on a colour change or a single unsuccessful moult.

Sources & review

This care guide draws on several specialist sources and was last checked on 17 October 2026.

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