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Care guide · Freshwater · fish

Peacock gudgeon

Tateurndina ocellicauda

Peacock gudgeon (Tateurndina ocellicauda)
Adult male with blue and red markings and a caudal eyespot. Photo: Cisamarc · Source · CC BY-SA 3.0Resized and compressed; no cropping or colour changes.

The peacock gudgeon (Tateurndina ocellicauda) is a colourful bottom-dwelling fish from eastern Papua New Guinea. Despite its common name, it is not a true goby in the family Gobiidae, but a sleeper in the Eleotridae. It seeks shelter, uses small caves as retreats and spawning sites, and can be somewhat territorial with its own kind. A planted aquarium with wood, stones and quiet retreats helps it feel secure and remain visible. It can live with small, peaceful fish only when space, water conditions, feeding access and breeding territories are genuinely compatible. Also consider its origin: the species was assessed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List. Ask for traceable captive-bred stock and avoid fish whose origin cannot be established.

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At a glance

Temperature
22–26 °C
pH
6.5–7.5
GH
5–10 °dGH
Aquarium length
At least 45 cm
Adult size
Up to 7.5 cm
Group size
At least 2 individuals
Swimming zone
Bottom
Temperament
Peaceful, Territorial

About this species

The peacock gudgeon has an elongated body, a large head, prominent eyes and iridescent blue-green colours with orange-red spots and bars. Its colour pattern and rounded tail explain the common name. That name is taxonomically misleading: Tateurndina ocellicauda belongs to the Eleotridae, the sleepers, not the Gobiidae. True gobies commonly have fused pelvic fins that act as a suction disc; this feature is absent in this species.

FishBase reports a maximum total length of 7.5 cm, while some aquarium profiles give a similar figure as standard length. Because measurement methods and reported adult size differ, this guide does not present one exact length as a typical expectation. Males generally grow larger and develop a nuchal hump as adults; females often have a yellower belly. Colour alone is not a reliable way to sex young fish. The species was assessed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List in 2020. Ask about captive breeding and provenance when buying, and avoid fish with undocumented origins.

Natural habitat

The species is known from eastern Papua New Guinea. Sources describe lowland streams, ponds and rivers in forested areas. It occurs in sheltered, vegetated waters and moves in loose groups, often close to the bottom. General range information does not establish the precise river or water chemistry of an aquarium-trade specimen.

Recreate structure and calm conditions rather than an assumed ‘wild-water recipe’. Roots, stones, plants and small dark caves provide cover and potential spawning sites. Leave open swimming space as well. A dark substrate may help the fish feel less exposed, but it is not a water-treatment requirement. The species needs clean, stable water and does not do well with strong flow through its entire habitat. Filtration and gas exchange are still necessary: calm water should not become stagnant or oxygen-poor.

Aquarium and layout

A footprint of about 45 × 30 cm is given in a specialist aquarium profile for adult fish; treat this as a lower bound for a small stocking, not as a guarantee that every community combination has enough room. Add larger or territorial tankmates only when the aquarium has more bottom area and several escape routes. No minimum volume in litres is set here: the cited footprint is more useful than an isolated litre figure, and extra height cannot make up for a cramped base.

Arrange wood, stones, plants and more than one suitable cave or crevice so fish do not have to compete for a single retreat. Avoid sharp edges and make sure hardscape is stable. Keep the current gentle, with filtered water and adequate oxygen exchange. Fit a secure lid and close gaps around cables and hoses: this fish may jump. Let the aquarium mature biologically and add fish only after water quality is stable.

Water conditions

A cautious aquarium range from the specialist profile is 22–26 °C, pH 6.5–7.5 and GH 5–10 °dGH. These are husbandry ranges, not a universal optimum for every population. Keep conditions stable and base any adjustment on the fish’s origin and acclimation. Avoid rapid pH correction with standalone chemicals; fluctuations may be more harmful than a stable value that differs slightly from a target.

Use mature biological filtration, test ammonia and nitrite if there is any doubt, and perform regular water changes with properly prepared water. The available sources do not establish a reliable species-specific KH target or minimum volume in litres, so neither is supplied. Good gas exchange matters especially at warmer temperatures. Watch for normal breathing, steady feeding and regular use of cover. A withdrawn fish calls for checking stress, current and tankmates, not immediate chemical adjustment.

Behaviour and group size

The peacock gudgeon is generally peaceful toward other small, calm fish, but it can show territorial behaviour toward its own species. Small groups are possible; conspecifics may display and have brief skirmishes. Provide several retreats and visual barriers. A pair is a documented breeding arrangement, but that does not mean one fixed sex ratio suits every aquarium. Observe whether each fish can reach food and safe cover.

Tankmates should feed calmly, avoid fin-nipping and be too small neither to prey on adult gudgeons nor to be seen as prey themselves. Assess bottom space, current, feeding competition and possible breeding territories as well as temperature and pH. Tiny shrimp and very small fish fry may be eaten, so do not assume complete safety for invertebrate offspring. A recorded relationship with the spotted blue-eye is conditional only: their shared temperature range is narrow and the blue-eye is an active schooling fish. Check closely that both species feed calmly and can retreat.

Feeding

The peacock gudgeon eats animal matter and has a relatively small mouth. Small live or frozen foods such as daphnia, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are often accepted more readily than coarse foods. Complete dry food can be part of the diet if the individual fish take it; crumble flakes when needed and make sure faster tankmates do not intercept every piece. Vary the menu and observe actual intake.

The existing Tropical flake food is linked as a staple because verified catalogue data identify it as a complete omnivore/carnivore food that floats or sinks slowly. Offer small portions and confirm that the gudgeons eat it; this link does not replace variety with suitable animal foods. Dried Daphnia is linked as a supplementary option, not a complete staple. Remove uneaten food. A change in appetite calls for checking stress, competition and water quality; do not automatically increase the ration.

Breeding

The peacock gudgeon is a cave spawner. A pair usually selects and cleans a cave or narrow crevice. The female typically attaches eggs to its roof or wall, after which the male guards and fans the clutch. Egg numbers and development time can vary, and sources do not all report identical conditions. Treat isolated figures as observations, not a fixed breeding schedule.

For a breeding attempt, a separate quiet aquarium with several suitable caves and clean, stable water is more practical than a rapid pH or temperature change. Other fish may eat eggs or fry. Parental care ends after hatching; the fry then need a safe rearing space and suitably fine food. Sources mention newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms for free-swimming fry, but success depends on when they become free-swimming and on their size. Record observations from the actual clutch rather than presenting one hatch time as universal.

Sources & review

This care guide draws on several specialist sources and was last checked on .

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