Badis Care
Badis badis
The blue badis (Badis badis) is a small, deliberate predator from South Asia. It hunts tiny aquatic animals among stones and plants and can change colour noticeably in an aquarium. It is not a typical schooling fish: adult males defend space, while faster tankmates may outcompete it at feeding time. A calm aquarium with cover, several well-spaced caves and appropriately small food is therefore important. This guide also explains why shrimp and other Badis species are not automatic tankmates. Follow the fish’s actual feeding and behaviour rather than relying on a generic community-fish label.
Plan your aquarium →At a glance
- Temperature
- 15–25 °C
- pH
- 6.0–7.5
- GH
- 3–15 °dGH
- Aquarium length
- At least 80 cm
- Minimum aquarium volume
- At least 72 L
- Adult size
- Up to 6 cm
- Group size
- At least 2 individuals
- Temperament
- Territorial
About this species
Badis badis (Hamilton, 1822) belongs to Badidae. It occurs in the Ganges drainage of India, Nepal and Bangladesh, with additional known localities in Assam and the Mahanadi system. The trade name “chameleon fish” refers to its ability to change colour rapidly, including during courtship or stress. Related Badis can look similar; confirm identity and do not confuse this species with the scarlet badis, Dario dario.
Natural habitat
The species has been documented in shallow, slow-moving waters. Locality descriptions include turbid, brownish water with some submerged plants and water lilies. This does not mean an aquarium should be dirty: stable, clean water remains essential. Recreate shelter and a quiet setting with stones, wood, leaf litter and plants, while avoiding strong flow.
Aquarium and layout
Seriously Fish recommends a footprint of at least 80 × 30 cm and about 72 litres for a pair or small group. Treat the footprint as important; volume alone does not describe territorial space. Use sand or fine gravel, smooth stones, wood, leaf litter and several small caves, spaced around the aquarium. Floating plants and subdued lighting can provide a calmer setting. Do not cluster all caves together, so territories can remain separated.
Water conditions
The specialist aquarium profile gives 15–25 °C, pH 6.0–7.5 and 3–15 dGH. These are broad husbandry limits; choose stable conditions and avoid rapid changes. Gentle acclimation and regular maintenance are preferable to aiming at the extremes. Measure the aquarium water directly and consider the fish’s origin and condition.
Behaviour and group size
Badis badis is shy, slow-moving and territorial, rather than a schooling fish. Males may fight in a confined aquarium. For smaller setups, Seriously Fish describes a pair or one male with several females; a group needs sufficient space and separate caves. Larger or boisterous fish may intimidate it or outcompete it for food. Small Caridina and Neocaridina shrimp may be eaten. Matching water values alone does not establish compatibility.
Feeding
This micropredator eats small crustaceans, worms, insect larvae and other zooplankton. Many individuals refuse dried foods. Offer small suitable live or frozen prey such as Artemia and Daphnia, and check that every fish is eating. Fast tankmates may take food first. Seriously Fish warns against routine bloodworm and Tubifex feeding because of obesity and health concerns, so they should not be a staple.
Breeding
Badis spawn in caves and form temporary pairs. After spawning, the male guards and fans the eggs and young larvae. Seriously Fish reports typical clutches of 30–100 eggs, but numbers and development are not guaranteed in every breeding attempt. Several separated caves help reduce conflict between males. Raising fry requires a prepared separate aquarium and very fine starter food; adults may later prey on the young.
Sources & review
This care guide draws on several specialist sources and was last checked on .